Somewhat gratefully back from the craziness of Buenos Aires to the calm of Montevideo, we arrived in time for the féria today. In this photo you can't really see the glory of this completely ordinary street market - this is one stand of many -in a rather scruffy neighborhood, which is glorious partly through its ordinariness. But nothing makes one want to cook as much as walking down this entire block, dedicated every week - probably for decades - to selling only real food: fruits, vegetables, cheese, eggs, fish, sometimes chicken, and well, yes, the occasional salami and jamón crudo (prosciutto.) There are weekly street markets all year long within a short walking distance of almost everyone in the city. We up north can only dream.
Fillets paprikash with noodles (for 2-3)
- 1 lb. white fish fillets, not too thin - perhaps halibut, bass, orange roughy (whatever that is)? It won't matter which really, as long as it doesn't fall apart too easily.
- 1/2 onion, diced
- 1 red pepper, diced
- 2 Roma tomatoes, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1/4 cp. tomato puree
- 1/4 cp. white wine
- 2" thin slice of orange rind
- 1 tsp. paprika
- 1/2 tsp. thyme
- chopped fresh parsley
- 1/4 lb. spaghetti
Put a large pot of water on to boil - when it does, add some salt, break the spaghetti in half, throw it in, cook until done, drain and rinse in cold water and set aside.While it's cooking, chop the vegetables. In a deep large saucepan, heat some some olive oil, and then the onion, sauté for 5 minutes. Add the red pepper - 5 minutes more - then the chopped tomatoes and garlic - 5 minutes more. Add the wine and let boil a minute or two - then add the puree, orange rind, spices, and 1 cup of water (with the optional 1/2 chicken bouillon cube.) Let simmer on low about 20 minutes until the peppers are soft and some of the liquid has evaporated. Add salt and pepper to taste. Now you can turn off the burner if you want, and wait until 10 minutes before you're ready to eat. At that point, bring back to a simmer and slide in the fish - cook until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes depending on how thick it is. Actually, this is lovely just as is, a kind of soup (above left), or served over rice. But the noodles make it heartier and add the perfect complementary texture. So go ahead and add them and let them heat up for a few minutes, and sprinkle with the parsley. The noodles will soak up almost all the liquid - just what you want. Enjoy with a lettuce and arugula salad. Then go out and watch another sunset.
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