Saturday, March 2, 2013

IS THIS CHINESE FOOD? WHATEVER, IT'S IDEAL FOR WEEKNIGHTS

I'm calling these Chinese, but how could they be, coming from an American Jewish kitchen in Pittsburgh? But ever since Reid and I became enlightened by the broccoli in oyster sauce at Joyce Chen's restaurant near MIT circa 1977 (everyone was rediscovering Chinese food beyond chow mein then) I have been trying to make something at home that at least tastes similar.  I have these two stir-fry recipes on badly stained cards in my old recipe box - they've been used a lot because they're delicious, fresh, and quick though wildly inauthentic - you'll see that they are basically 2 versions of the same thing, which I'm sure would outrage real Chinese cooks.

Before you start, put a pot of plain white rice on to cook alongside.

KUNG PAO CHICKEN (I have no idea if this is really Kung Pao Chicken, or even where it came from, but it's still yummy) (this is for 2 - double for more)
  • 3/4 lb. boneless chicken, cut in 1" chunks
    • 2 TB soy sauce
    • 1 tsp. cornstarch
    • splash sherry and sesame oil
  • 4 dried hot chiles, wiped clean (or 1/4 - could be more if you like - tsp. red pepper flakes)
  • 3 green, red or yellow peppers, cut in 1" squares
  • 1/4 cp. shelled peanuts
  • 5 scallions, trimmed and sliced 
  • Sauce - stir together:
    • 3 TB soy sauce
    • 1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch, first mixed with 1 TB water
    • 1/2 tsp. sesame oil
    • 1 TB sherry
    • 1 tsp. sugar
(For all dishes like this, you'll want to have this all cut up or stirred together and at hand before you even turn on the stove.  That's actually what takes the most time - after that it's a whirlwind.)

Combine chicken with the soy sauce, cornstarch, sherry and sesame oil and stir until well mixed.  Heat about an inch of vegetable oil (I use canola) until VERY hot in a wok-shaped pan if you have it (uses less oil) but a regular frying pan is fine.  Throw in the chicken and stir fry pretty continuously for just 5 minutes or until cooked through.  Spoon out the chicken with a slotted spoon onto a plate, and discard all the oil except for a few tablespoons.  (If there is stuff stuck to the bottom of the pan, you will probably want to clean it and add fresh oil.)  

Heat the oil again, and first put in the chiles.  In a minute they will turn black - and you can take them out or leave them (but warn people not to eat them! If you use red pepper flakes, wait only a few seconds.)  Add the peppers, peanuts, and scallions and stir until cooked but still crisp, about 2 minutes. Pour on the sauce and bring to a boil while stirring - it will thicken.  Add cooked chicken and heat throughout.  Serve with the rice.  This actually tastes better when eaten with chopsticks.

CHICKEN WITH CABBAGE IN BEAN SAUCE
  • 3/4 lb. boneless chicken, cut in 1" chunks
    • 2 TB soy sauce
    • 1 TB cornstarch
    • splash sherry and sesame oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1" piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced
  • 3 cps. of thinly sliced green cabbage
  • 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
  • Sauce - stir together:
    • 3 TB soy sauce
    • 1 tsp. sugar
    • 1 TB (or less depending on whether it's hot and how you like it) Chinese bean sauce, which you get at a Chinese grocery, but you can probably find at Whole Foods.  The one I use looks like the jar at the top. Hot or not - you choose - I think hot is better in this dish. 
    • 1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch dissolve in 1 TB water
(This part same as above.)  Combine chicken with the soy sauce, cornstarch, sherry and sesame oil and stir until well mixed.  Heat about an inch of vegetable oil (I use canola) until VERY hot in a wok-shaped pan if you have it (uses less oil) but a regular frying pan is fine.  Throw in the chicken and stir fry pretty continuously for just 5 minutes or until cooked through.  Spoon out the chicken with a slotted spoon onto a plate, and discard all the oil except for a few tablespoons.  (If there is stuff stuck to the bottom of the pan, you will probably want to clean it and add fresh oil.)  

Heat the oil again, and put in the cabbage, ginger and garlic and stir.  Pour on a little water and cover for a few minutes to move it along without burning.  Uncover and see if the cabbage is just barely cooked. When it is, pour the sauce over and stir until it thickens.  Add the cooked chicken and heat throughout.  Serve with the rice. 

Of course in both of these you can substitute pork for the chicken, or tofu, or use different vegetables, etc. etc.  Then it will be even more inauthentic!  But your own.

One more thing:  as every dinner needs a salad, you can make a simple one of sliced cucumbers with scallions, salt, and a dash of sesame oil - or take a look through this absolutely brilliant and essential compilation of salads by (who else?) Mark Bittman, and pick any Asian one that strikes your fancy.  To the New York Times:  please never take this away!