HOW MANY CHOCOLATE CAKES DO WE NEED? AT LEAST THREE

Cake of enchantment, created by Tamara last week!

Inspired by that, but sticking to our more homely theme, here are three chocolate cake recipes from our family past, which are the home-style fairly fast kids' birthday kind - also lovable.  And maybe if we're lucky Tamara will send hers in too.

DECADENT CAKE:  Go-to birthday cake in the Andrews/Werner family.
(not decadent at all, really, but that's what they called it in the venerable Silver Palate cookbook, which in this house opens automatically to this page.  Slightly amended.)

• 1 cp. boiling water
• 3 oz. unsweetened chocolate
• 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp. almond extract (optional)
• 2 cps. sugar
• 2 eggs, separated
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 cp. yogurt (best if full fat)
• 2 cps. all purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp baking powder

Preheat oven to 350.  Grease and flour either a bundt cake pan or a 13x9" pan.

Pour boiling water over butter and chocolate and let stand until melted.  Stir in vanilla, almond extract, and sugar, then whisk in egg yolks, one at a time.  Separately, mix baking soda and yogurt thoroughly, and then whisk this into the chocolate mixture.  Sift flour and baking powder into the batter and mix thoroughly. 

Separately, beat egg whites with the salt until they hold a shape.  Fold them into the batter gently, a quarter at a time.  Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 30 - 45 minutes, checking at 30 minutes to see if the top bounces back when you touch it, and a toothpick or thin wooden skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean.  When it does, it's done - cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then unmold.  Frost when it's perfectly cool.

Frosting:

• 2 TB unsalted butter
• 3/4 cp. semisweet chocolate chips
• 6 TB heavy cream
• 1 1/4 cps. sifted powdered sugar
• 1/4 tsp. almond extract (or 1 tsp. vanilla)

Put all of these in a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir until smooth. Take off the heat and let cool until it thickens somewhat but is still warm and gooey.  Spread over the cake the way you like it.  


Next up:

:

NAN'S CHOCOLATE CAKE

This is the one my Nan always made for us, and always said "it didn't come out right!" and we always loved it of course.  It's here mainly for preservation as is Nan's fear-inspiring handwriting.

• 1/4 lb. sweet butter plus one piece (1 TB?) at room temperature
• 1 1/2 cups sugar scant
• 3 eggs separated (large probably)
• 1 2/3 cp. cake flour
• 3 sq. bitter (unsweetened) chocolate
• 1/2 cp. water
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 3/4 tsp. salt

Preheat oven to 350.  Melt chocolate over hot water in double boiler.  Cream butter, add sugar, then egg yolks, and beat until smooth.  Add melted chocolate and stir.  Sift dry ingredients together and stir in, alternating with water.  Add vanilla.  Beat egg whites until just stiff and fold them in.  Bake in a greased tube pan for 40 min.  

Frosting:

• 3 TB butter softened
• 2 cps. confectioner sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2 squares unsweetened chocolate, melted
• 1 egg

Beat together and frost cake.

(A woman of few words - actually she was a woman of a crazy amount of words, but not about frosting.)

BUT IN THE END, THIS IS THE ONE EVERYONE WANTS:

MY SISTER-IN-LAW ALICE'S KILLER CAKE

• 6 oz. unsalted butter
• 6 oz. unsweetened chocolate chopped
• 6 eggs
• 3 cps. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1 TB vanilla
• 1 1/2 cps. flour
• 1 1/2 cps. chocolate chips

Mix the cake by hand.  Preheat oven to 350. Grease 2 9" round cake pans and line bottoms with wax or parchment paper.  

Melt butter and chocolate together over simmering water.  Cool to lukewarm.  In a large bowl, whisk together for one minute the eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla.  Whisk in the butter-sugar mixture.  Stir in the flour and chocolate chips.  Pour the batter into the pans and bake for 30-35 min. (Do not overbake - actually a cake tester should not come out clean.)  Cool on racks and remove from pans as soon as cooled.  (If you are not using it that day, these freeze well if wrapped closely.)

Frosting:

• 1 1/4 cps. sugar
• 2 TB instant coffee
• 1 cp. heavy cream
• 5 oz. unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
• 4 oz. unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Combine the sugar, coffee, and cream in a heavy deep saucepan.  Stirring, bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer 6 minutes without stirring.  Remove from heat and add the chopped chocolate; stir until melted and blended in.  Add butter and vanilla and whisk well.  Chill until it begins to thicken and feels spreadable.  Spread some on top of one layer, cover with the other, and now cover the whole thing. 

At last, decadence.

SUNDAY ROAST CHICKEN

It's Sunday - time to roast the chicken that will fill your house with a delicious smell so classic that its effect is primordial.

So it is important where you get the chicken, because that counts more than technique:  as Nigella Lawson says, it's almost embarrassingly easy to do this.  My go-to place for chickens is the East Liberty Farmer's Market - every Saturday morning - right from the farmers (the valiant Kennedy family) and, more amazing, the most inexpensive chicken in Pittsburgh.  (People complain that they run out early, but if you call and reserve one, you can show up as late as 10 and they'll have it all ready for you.)

• 1 chicken (roaster or fryer), 2 1/2 lbs to 3 1/2 lbs  (smaller one serves 2 - larger serves 4)
• 2 cloves of garlic, smashed
• olive oil or soft butter
• kosher or other coarse salt
• some kind of herb that you like, dried or fresh (I have some rosemary in a pot outside that is somehow alive and well all winter long and has been there for years.)

Preheat oven to 425.
Any pan is OK (though not glass), and if you have a roasting rack, that will help - I use a little cheap one which looks like this and is fine.

Wash and dry the chicken, and sprinkle the inside with a tsp. of salt.  Put the smashed garlic and the herbs (either sprigs of fresh ones or a tsp. of dried) inside, and (optional - makes it look better) tie the legs together with string.  With your fingers, spread some olive oil or butter over the skin.

Put the chicken on the rack in the pan on its side, and set the timer for 20 minutes.  Now take it out and turn it on the other side (dishwashing gloves are a big help here) and roast another 20 minutes.  Take it out and turn it again, this time right side up.  (All the turning crisps the skin underneath.)  Put a little more butter or oil on the top side, turn the oven down to 350, and that's pretty much it, so you can go read a book or write a blog entry.   Don't get too involved though, since you will want to baste it every 20 minutes or so with the liquid in the pan. and turn it from back to front at least once.  If the top starts getting too brown, slide a piece of foil or baking parchment over it.  Timing doesn't have to be perfect:  I find 1 1/4 hrs. for the smaller and 2 hrs. for the larger chicken will do if you like it tender and falling apart, like I do.  You can tell it's done if, when you pierce the thigh with a knife (how savage, really) the juices run clear and not pink.  Or, use an instant thermometer - 165 degrees is safe.

Now the end game:  take it out of the oven and lift the chicken onto a plate and loosely cover - it should rest for 15 minutes. While that is happening, spoon off at least some of the liquid chicken fat floating on top of the liquid in the roasting pan, put the whole pan over a burner and pour in about a cup of white wine or chicken broth or a combination. Bring to a simmer and scrape up all the bits stuck to the bottom with a wooden spoon; boil down until it's a little thicker and more concentrated - there's your sauce!  If you're a perfectionist you can strain it.  Cut the chicken up and arrange it any way you like, spoon some sauce over the top and serve the rest on the side.  You are now in your own bistro.

Of course googling roast chicken will give you a million more ideas to jazz this up - but try it this way at least once, for its knockout simplicity.  And for the last 45 minutes, do consider roasting some potatoes alongside, either those tiny ones, or bigger ones cut into 1"cubes - just use another pan that you have spooned some of the chicken fat into (oh alright, olive oil is fine also.)

COCINANDO CON EVITA

In Chicago this weekend for Eve's birthday, and of course much wonderful eating going on, but especially in Eve's kitchen, where she is taking the best advantage of her heritage and of the bodegas in her neighborhood.  So here are some of the recipes she's sharing:


CAMARONES EN SALSA DE CHILE ANCHO

• 4 ancho chiles (dried)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 large can tomatoes
• 2 or 3 lbs. large uncooked peeled and deveined shrimp (depending on # of eaters)
• salt to taste and a pinch of sugar
• chopped cilantro as garnish

Use a large deep saucepan (preferably cast iron) that can hold all the shrimp as well as about a quart of sauce.  On medium heat and with no oil, toast the chiles on both sides until they are aromatic (about 5 minutes.)  Take them out and when they've cooled enough to handle cut them open, take out the seeds, stem and veins, put them in a heatproof bowl, and pour boiling water over them, to barely cover.  

Meanwhile, back in the saucepan, add some olive oil, and then slowly saute the chopped onion and garlic until translucent.  When the chiles have softened (10 minutes?) pour them and the soaking water into a blender or food processor, along with the contents of the can of tomatoes.  Blend until smooth, and pour over the sauteed garlic/onions in the pan.  Simmer for about a half hour until it's a deep rich brown, and add salt and maybe a pinch of sugar to taste.  Throw in the shrimp and simmer about 10 more minutes until the shrimp is just done. Scatter the top with chopped cilantro. ¡Listo!

This goes naturally with black beans and rice (simply cooked, because it will soak up this sauce gorgeously) and an excellent accompaniment is this Mexican-ish "green onion red cabbage slaw" (via Eve's favorite, Smitten Kitchen.)  An ideal winter in Chicago dinner.


But first, some TOMATILLO SALSA with tortilla chips -

• 4 large tomatillos
• 1 jalapeño
• 4 cloves garlic

Broil these until blackened - turn over and do the same.  (Eve did this in a toaster oven.)  Throw into a blender (or a food processor?  will have to try) and blend.  Add salt and maybe some water if it's too thick.  


And for another time - or perhaps a first course?  Eve's invention, made for a monthly potluck with friends event:

GINGERED CARROT AND PEANUT SOUP WITH ANCHO CHILE BUTTER
Makes about 10 cups - 6-8 servings?? (i doubled it for the party)

• 1 TB butter
• 1 TB olive oil
• 2 smallish white or yellow onions, chopped, about 1 1/2 cups
• Roughly 1 1/2 lbs carrots, peeled and chopped into discs
• 1-2 smallish russet potatoes, chopped into 1-inch chunks
• 2-3 TB chopped ginger (depending on your affinity for fresh ginger)
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped
• 3 cups broth (I used vegetable)
• 2-3 cups water
• 1/4 cup creamy peanut butter
• Salt and black pepper, to taste
• Roasted and finely chopped peanuts, for garnish
• Minced parsley, for garnish

Heat butter and olive oil in large, heavy-bottomed pot until butter is completely melted. Add onions, carrots, potatoes, ginger, and garlic, and sautee for about 7-8 minutes. Add chopped peanuts and sautee for about 2-3 more minutes. Add broth and water, bring to a boil, and simmer for 25 min. Add peanut butter, simmer for 5 more minutes, and remove from heat. Puree in blender or with immersion blender, and season with salt and pepper. Serve with roughly 1-2 tsp ancho chile butter, chopped roasted peanuts, and minced parsley.

Ancho chile butter - makes about 1/2 cup

1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 large dried ancho chile
1/2 tsp sea salt

Toast the dried chile on an iron skillet until the color changes slightly, cool, and remove stem and seeds. Soak in roughly 1/2 cup very hot water for about 10-15 minutes. Remove, drain, and mince into a paste. Cream with softened butter and sea salt until uniformly incorporated.

BEFORE AND AFTER - Gougères et Compote

Dinner always benefits from something before and after.  Allons-nous!

If you want to whip up a quick appetizer (amuse bouche!), gougères are really faster and simpler than you would believe especially since they essentially the same as those intimidating éclairs and profiteroles.

GOUGERES
(This recipe adapted from the captivating French Food at Home) wherein many delights.

• 1/3 cp. plus 1 TB unsalted butter
• ½ tsp. salt and pepper
• 1 cp. all purpose flour
• 3 eggs (large)
• ½ cp. Gruyère (or swiss, or any kind you like) cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 375.  Put the butter in a heavy saucepan with 1 cp. water and salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil and take off the heat.  Add the flour all at once and beat until smooth with a wooden spoon.  The mixture will pull away from the sides of the pan and form a ball.  Put the pan back on low heat and beat for a minute or so to dry the paste somewhat.  Remove from the heat and let cool about 3 minutes.

Add the eggs one at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon after each addition  (It will just make clumps at first, but eventually will become smooth.)  What you want is a smooth, soft, glossy paste that falls easily from the spoon.  Stir in the cheese.  Drop the mixture by spoonfuls onto a buttered baking sheet (or definitely use parchment paper if you have it.)  Brush with some milk. Bake until puffed up and nicely browned, about 20 min.  (But check after 10 to make sure they’re not browning too quickly.)   Put on a plate and eat soon (not a problem.)

COMPOTE  (OK - you might want to have cookies or ice cream on the side - but try it straight too.)

• 1 cp. dried apples
• 1 cp. dried apricots
• 1 cp. dried prunes 
• really any other dried fruit that you like
• water to cover
• 1/4 cp. white wine
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1/2 cp. sugar

Put all of this in a saucepan and bring to a low simmer.  Let go on for about 1/2 hr., until everything is tender and the liquid is somewhat syrupy.  Cool, and think about adding some bourbon.  Ummm, just add it.

FOOD IS TO LOVE AS SOUP IS TO...

Oh, go ahead, all you smartypants SAT takers.  All I can say is that this particular soup is simply just what you want, especially around Valentine's Day.  It's somewhat like Jesse's soup below, and another one I had put in earlier, so I was going to skip it, but you've probably forgotten them by now - and besides, this deserves a spot.  There is just something about it's complete softness, sweetness, saltiness, hotness, and aroma that is kind of perfect.

SORT OF INDIAN SOUP

• 1 large onion, sliced
• 1 red pepper, sliced
• 1 clove garlic and 1" of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped together
• 2 tsp. of good hot curry powder (or more to taste)**
• 2 cps. of butternut squash, peeled and in 1/2" cubes
• 2 cps. of potato, peeled (if you want) and cut into 1/2" cubes (in the soup, russets will fall apart somewhat; and yukon golds or reds will hold their shape - just pick the kind you like)
• 1 can of garbanzos, drained and rinsed (or better yet, some that you have cooked)
• 1 tsp. or cube or packet of chicken bouillon (have recently discovered Trader Joe's in packets - excellent!) (or better yet, lots of chicken stock)
• 1/2 can of reduced fat coconut milk
• 1 cp. of frozen (try to find leaf and not chopped if you can - Whole Foods has it) spinach (or better yet, a pile of washed and trimmed turnip greens)
• (optional:  if you happen to have some leftover cooked chicken, by all means use it here)
• Juice of 1/2 lime, salt and pepper

First, put the spinach in a bowl so that it defrosts a bit while you do the rest.  Then, in a soup pan, sauté the onion and pepper in canola or vegetable oil over moderate heat until they are quite soft.  Stir in the garlic and ginger, and then the curry powder, and stir for a minute or so.  Add the squash, potato, and garbanzos, stir, and then add water to cover and bring to a simmer.  Stir in the bouillon until dissolved, put a cover on, and simmer until the potato and squash are soft.  (20 min.?)

Now stir in the coconut milk, the spinach, the optional chicken, and simmer for another 5 minutes or so.  Salt/pepper to taste.  Mush up the potatoes just a little, and freshen it up with some lime juice.  Be satisfied.

**there is a terrific recipe for making your own curry powder - and if you have a coffee grinder and a co-op (where they sell spices in bulk) nearby, really a cinch - in the China Moon Cookbook, and I think Google Books gives it to you right here (click on p.7).